Alain Ducasse's Gougères (2024)

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This recipe for gougères starts with a soft dough that gets piped out and baked into crisp, airy pockets of cheesy delight.

By

Alain Ducasse

Alain Ducasse's Gougères (1)

Alain Ducasse

F&W Star Chef » See All F&W Chef Superstars He has 23 restaurants and three hotels, but the Michelin-starred superchef Alain Ducasse still finds time for exciting new projects, including a culinary arts certification program in Paris and an excellent new cooking app called My Culinary Encyclopedia. He has also returned to his early love of chocolate, opening Manufacture de Chocolat Alain Ducasse, a traditional Parisian chocolate workshop, in the city’s Bastille neighborhood. What recipe are you most famous for? I am particularly proud of the Cookpot, a slow-cooked casserole of local, seasonal vegetables. For the dish contents, you need nothing more than a layer of a mushroom duxelles followed by a layer of alternating rows of sliced seasonal, local vegetables. What was the first thing you ever cooked? The first dish I ever made myself was gâteau aux carottes or carrot pudding. It was the first recipe I made from Michel Guérard’s Cuisine Minceur cookbook, in 1975. What do you wish you were better at? I wish I were better at making chocolate. Toward the start of my career, working with Gaston Lenôtre, I discovered the world of chocolate. I was absolutely fascinated by its flavor, but I decided to stick to my first instinct to become a cook. What are the best bang-for-the-buck ingredients? The best bang-for-the-buck ingredients are olive oil and—when it comes to pastry—honey. It is best to avoid very sugary desserts, as the sugar overloads the taste buds and kills the flavor profile. What destination offers the best bang for the buck in food? Peru. Gastón Acurio, based in Lima, is doing an extraordinary job, looking to the South American terroir to bring to life a contemporary Andean cuisine. Do you have any favorite travel gear? Vintage luggage. For instance, I have some Samsonite suitcases from the 1960s, as well as Goyard luggage. Goyard, a 150-year-old leather tanner, crafted a trunk for my shoes, one for my knives and another one for my Michelin Guide collection. What’s your dream restaurant project? I would love to create the first restaurant ever on Mars. A few years ago, I developed meals for the astronauts of the European Space Agency, and if I could invent an imaginary restaurant, it would be in space. If you were bringing Mario Batali somewhere to eat, where would it be? I would love to invite him to picnic out of my 1950s Chevy pickup at La Bastide de Moustiers, my country hotel in Provence. We would pick the vegetables in the kitchen garden and prepare them together before heading out. What ingredient will people be talking about in five years? Grains, particularly rice fonio and quinoa. To start with, they’re so good to eat! And not just that, grains are necessary for a balanced diet. They contain a whole array of vital nutrients. Do you have a favorite new store-bought ingredient? It’s not new, but it is timeless and delicious: Jean Paul Veziano’s pissaladière at his Boulangerie Veziano in Antibes. It’s like a tart made with onions and macerated small fish, and is a brilliant example of the humble Mediterranean cuisine I love so much.

Updated on April 30, 2023

Active Time:

15 mins

Total Time:

45 mins

Yield:

28 gougères

Gougères, though they may look like tiny breads, are made from the classic French pastry pâte à choux — which actually translates to cabbages, based on what the baked dough resembles. On the sweet front, choux pastry is used to make éclairs and profiteroles, aka cream puffs; for chef Alain Ducasse's savory gougères, the dough is enriched with Gruyère and pepper.

Preparing these cheesy little morsels will make you feel like a culinary magician. Upon baking, the silky, dense dough transforms into something else entirely — light, ethereal puffs with crisp exteriors that are heavenly to munch on while sipping wine. This gougères recipe is a wonderful make-ahead hors d'oeuvre option: Simply stash the baked puffs in the freezer, then reheat in the oven when you're ready to serve.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup water

  • 1/2 cup milk

  • 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

  • Large pinch of coarse salt

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour

  • 4 large eggs

  • 3 1/2 ounces shredded Gruyère cheese (1 cup), plus more for sprinkling

  • Freshly ground black pepper

  • Freshly grated nutmeg

Directions

  1. Alain Ducasse's Gougères (2)

    Gather the ingredients.

  2. Alain Ducasse's Gougères (3)

    Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. In a medium saucepan, combine the water, milk, butter, and salt; bring to a boil.

  3. Alain Ducasse's Gougères (4)

    Add the flour and stir it in with a wooden spoon until a smooth dough forms; stir over low heat until it dries out and pulls away from the side of the pan, about 2 minutes.

  4. Alain Ducasse's Gougères (5)

    Scrape the dough into a bowl; let cool for 1 minute. Beat the eggs into the dough, one at a time, beating thoroughly between each one. Add the cheese and a pinch each of pepper and nutmeg.

  5. Alain Ducasse's Gougères (6)

    Transfer the dough to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip and pipe tablespoon-size mounds onto the baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Sprinkle with cheese and bake for 22 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown.

  6. Alain Ducasse's Gougères (7)

    Serve hot, or let cool and refrigerate or freeze. Reheat in a 350°F oven until piping hot.

Note

When making the choux pastry, be sure that each egg is fully incorporated into the batter before adding the next. Don't worry if the batter separates and looks curdled at first. Keep beating, and it will come together nicely.

Originally appeared: October 2003

Alain Ducasse's Gougères (2024)

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